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Fabric Trim on Collars

This makes a nice final touch on my denim shirts. I thought you might like to try it on one of your projects. The shirts I use are topstitched about 1/4" from the collar edges. I leave the denim showing around the collar edges outside the topstitching and cover the collar on the inside of the top-stitching.

1.  Measure the width and length of  your collar.
2.  Cut a strip of fabric 1" wider & 1 " longer than those measurements. You can cut on the straight grain or on the bias. I usually cut my strips straight across the fabric, unless I need the bias for a design element.
3.  Mark a line  3/4" from one long edge of the fabric strip down its entire length. You will be pressing over this marking later, so do a test to make sure your mark can be removed after being heat set.
4. Lay the fabric strip right side up, marked side to the left.

5. Lay the collar face down (shirt label facing down, against machine). The shirt body is to the left, top collar edge is to the right, lining up with the marking on the fabric strip.


red line shows stitching

6.  Straight stitch down the long collar edge following the topstitching. Start at the point where the topstitching turns the corner. End your stitching at the other end of the topstitching, where it turns the corner.

7. Take the shirt to the ironing board. Place with fabric strip wrong side up. Press stitching to set seam.

(Remember to remove marking if necessary before pressing.)


8.  Turn fabric to right side along seam line. Press into place. Notice denim is showing along top edge.

 

9.  Turn fabric edges up along collar stand edge and collar sides (next to top-stitching). Steam to create a crease.

Fabric a little soft? Give it a shot of spray starch or sizing to make it crisper.


To help follow the curve of the fabric stand, you can clip the fabric strip in several places. Clip to about the seam allowance.

10. Using the creases as a guidelines, trim off the excess fabric from all edges. Leave about 3/8" for a seam allowance.
11.  Press the seam allowances to the wrong side. The folded edges will be against the top stitching on the ends, and along the collar stand. Use a few pins to hold in place.

Miter the corners, trimming away excess fabric where necessary.

12.  Top-stitch the collar in place using your favorite method.

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© 2002 Peggy Severt, Pegboard Crafts
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